Desert Garden Calendar --- Desert Checklist For February

If you have a lawn or a garden in our Arizona desert, you might need a little assistance with what to expect in your garden, and what to do in your garden at certain times of the year. Here are some basic tips for caring for your desert plants, flowers, vegetables, and trees.
Find your Phoenix area garden checklist for other months.

Your Desert Garden - Monthly Do List for February

Even though it is starting to get a little warmer in the Valley, we can still have an occasional frost. Don't forget that weather forecasts are generally quoted from Sky Harbor International Airport, and many of the outlying parts of the Valley can be up to 10°F colder than that at night. Be prepared to cover frost-tender plants. Bug talk:
Aphids may be present on many plants. The best control is natural predators, such as lacewings, and praying mantis. Acquaint yourself with these insects, and if present do not use insecticides. Hosing the aphids off with a forceful spray of water is helpful in gaining control. A couple of drops of dish soap in a spay bottle of water can also be very effective.
Grass

• Ryegrass should be watered about once or twice a week depending on the weather. Bermuda grass needs water about once a month.
• Bermuda will begin to turn green when nighttime lows reach about 65 degrees.

Trees/Shrubs

• Fertilize fruit, nut and shade trees, shrubs and vines.
• Pecan trees and grape vines need a zinc rich fertilizer to help them produce their best.
• Now is the time for shaping citrus trees a little, if you must. Normally there is no need to prune citrus like regular fruit trees. Try to let the citrus foliage grow to about knee high. The best fruit is produced on the lower two thirds of the tree so raising the skirt reduces the amount of the fruit you will get.
• Clean out dead wood.
• Remove any suckers growing from below the graft.
• Shape your ornamental shrubs so the new spring growth will fill in the bare branches and holes left from pruning.
• While pruning frost damaged plants, wait and prune after new growth has started.

Flowers

• Prepare flower beds for spring gardens.
• Freshen up flowerbeds by removing faded or spent blooms.
• Bare-root roses should be in the ground this month, the earlier the better.
• Begin fertilizing established roses with granular fertilizers about the middle of the month.
• Clean out dead or diseased wood in roses.
• Remove weak and crossing canes and old leaves to discourage insects and disease.

Vegetables

• Plant seeds: beans, beets, bok choy, carrots, swiss chard, cucumbers, leaf lettuce, melons, mustard, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, , sunflowers, turnips, watermelons, Martha Washington asparagus (roots or crowns).
• Plant transplants: artichokes, asparagus, chard, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, peppers and tomatoes.
• If you set out transplants before mid-February protect them from the cold.
• Prepare your soil for a spring/summer garden. Organic matter, mulch, manure or compost is very important.
• Fertilize producing vegetable gardens.
• Corn may be seeded after mid-February. Plant short day varieties (less than 70 days).

Your Desert Garden - Monthly Don't List for February

1. When pruning never remove more than 1/4 of the total plant. Always use sharp, sterile, quality pruning tools and disinfect them between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.
2. Don't cheat on soil preparation for flowers and vegetables.
3. Don't fertilize dormant Bermuda grass until late April or May.
4. Don't plant roses with western exposure because of the afternoon summer heat.
5. Too much fertilizer can cause salt burn and too little can cause nutrient deficiency problems. Water both the day before and immediately after applying granular fertilizers.
6. Don't fertilize mature trees near the trunk. Fertilize the outer two thirds of the ground of the leaf canopy where the most active roots are.
7. Don't water grass at night when the temperatures are coolest as this fosters the growth of fungal diseases.
8. Don't mow when grass is wet. This also may result in fungal disease.
9. Don't delay on weed control. Handle weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout.
10. Don't use a pre-emergent in an area where you are going to plant veggies and flowers from seed. It will prevent seeds from germination. It will not affect transplants.

Information contained herein was obtained from the The University of Arizona, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, and John Chapman's Southwest Gardening with their permission. Keep in mind that soil and conditions vary from location to location. Check with a local yard or landscape expert for specific issues with your garden.

Where to Start and What to Grow in Your Flower Gardens

The main point behind growing your own vegetables is how much better they taste fresh from the garden. The only failsafe way to guarantee harvesting vegetables at the optimal time is to taste test. However, there are some guidelines for judging when vegetables are ripe and ready for harvest. Keep in mind that great flavor isn’t a simple matter of size or color. Without the right combination of soil, sun and water many vegetables can vary greatly in taste and performance.


There are no precise guidelines as to when to harvest your vegetables, but there are some rules of thumb to guide you. Most vegetables are harvested just before full maturity, for maximum flavor and the most pleasant texture. The following are vegetable harvesting criteria for judging whether your vegetables are ready for picking.

When to Harvest Your Vegetables

• Asparagus: Begin harvesting when spears are 6-8 inches tall and about as think as your small finger. Snap them off at ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
• Beans (Snap): Pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two. Check daily. It doesn’t take long for beans to go from tender to tough.
• Beets: You can harvest and eat the green tops that you thin out of the rows. Beets are really a matter of personal preference when it comes to the right size for harvesting. They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders protruding at the soil line.
• Broccoli: We eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Dont expect your home grown broccoli to get to the size of supermarket heads. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a match head.
• Brussel Sprouts: The sprouts will mature from the bottom up. You can begin harvesting once the sprouts are at least an inch in diameter. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem.
• Cabbage: The cabbage head will feel solid when gently squeezed. Cabbage needs to be harvested when it reaches maturity or it will continue to grow and split open.
• Carrots: Carrots can be hard to judge. The tops of the carrot will show at the soil line and you can gage when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one to be certain. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost is said to improve and sweeten the carrot’s flavor.
• Cauliflower: As with broccoli, your home grown cauliflower heads will probably never match supermarket size. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
• Corn: About 3 weeks after the silks form, they will turn dry and brown. The kernels should exude a milky substance when pricked.
• Cucumber: Cucumbers race to the harvest with zucchini. Check daily and harvest young. Timing and length will vary with variety. The fruits should be firm smooth. Over ripe cucumbers can be very bitter or pithy, even before they start to turn yellow.
• Eggplant: Slightly immature fruits taste best. The fruits should be firm and shiny. Cut rather than pulling from the plant. 
• Garlic: The garlic tops will fall over and begin to brown when the bulbs are ready. Dig, don’t pull, and allow to dry before storing. It’s best to simply brush off the dirt, rather than washing.
• Kale: Kale leaves can be throughout the season. They should be a deep green with a firm, sturdy texture. Kale flavor is best in cooler weather.
• Kohlrabi: For the best texture, harvest once the kohlrabi bulb has reached about 2-3 inches in diameter. The bulbs become tougher as they grow and age. Pull or slice at the base.
• Leeks: Harvest leeks when they are about 1 inch in diameter.
• Lettuce (Head): Harvest once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
• Lettuce (Leaf): Harvest the outer leaves one the plant has reached about 4 inches in height. Allow the younger, inner leaves to grow. Leaf lettuce can be harvested in this fashion for most of the summer.
• Muskmelon: There are many varieties of muskmelon, but a general rule of thumb is that the color should change to beige and the fruit will ‘slip’ from the vine when lifted. You should also be able to notice a sweet smell when ripe.
• Onions: Onions can be dug once the tops have ripened and fallen over. Allow the onions to dry in the sun.
• Parsnips: Parsnips taste best if they are left in the ground until after a frost or two. They can be left in the ground over the winter and harvested in the spring. In cold areas, they should be mulched for the winter.
• Peas: The pea pods should look and feel full. Peas are sweeter if harvested before fully plumped. Peas really need to be tasted to determine if they are sweet enough.
• Potatoes: ‘New’ potatoes can be harvested when the tops start to flower. Carefully dig at the outer edges of the row. For full size potatoes, wait until the tops of the potato plants dry and turn brown. Start digging from the outside perimeter and move in cautiously to avoid slicing into potatoes.
• Pumpkins: Once the pumpkins have turned the expected color and the vines are starting to decline, check to make sure the skin has hardened enough that poking it with your fingernail will not crack it. You don’t want to pick your pumpkin too soon, because it will stop turning orange once it’s cut, but don't leave them out if a hard frost is expected.
• Radishes: Radishes mature quickly. You will see the shoulders of the bulbs popping out of the soil line. If left too long, they will become tough and eventually go to seed.
• Rutabaga: The bulbs should be about 3 inches in diameter, generally about 3 months after setting out. Rutabagas can be mulched, left in the ground and dug up as needed. Cold weather improves their flavor.
• Swiss Chard: As with leaf lettuce. Cut the outer leaves and allow the center to continue growing.
• Spinach: Spinach goes to seed quickly. Harvest by cutting at the soil line before you see a flower stalk beginning to shoot up.
• Squash (Summer): Pick young and check often. The skins should be tender enough to poke your fingernail through.
• Squash (Winter): Color is a good indicator of winter squash maturity. When the squash turns the color it is supposed to be, cut from the vine. Do not let winter squash be exposed to frost.
• Tomatoes: Harvest tomatoes when they are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. Gently twist and pull from the vine.
• Turnips: The turnip shoulders should be about 2 to 2 ½ inches in diameter at the soil line, when ready. Harvest once they reach maturity. Overripe turnips become woody.
• Watermelon: The white spot on the bottom of the melon should change to a deep yellow when ripe. Some people can hear a change in the sound made when the melon is thumped with a finger. It should make a hollow sound when ripe, but this is a skill that must be developed.
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Ten Vegetables You Can Grow Without Full Sun

When most people picture a vegetable garden, they imagine a spot that bakes in the sun all day. For some vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash, this is the ideal site. What if we want to grow vegetables, but don't have a site like this "ideal" one available? There are plenty of vegetables that will grow well without full sun. Those of us who have shade can grow vegetables, too.
Basically, a good rule to remember is that if you grow a plant for the fruit or the root, it needs full sun. If you grow it for the leaves, stems, or buds, a little shade will be just fine.
Keep in mind that no vegetable will grow in full, dense shade. The following crops will produce with three to six hours of sun, or fairly constant dappled shade, per day.

1. Salad Greens, such as leaf lettuce, arugula, endive, and cress.
2. Broccoli
3. Cauliflower
4. Peas
5. Beets
6. Brussels Sprouts
7. Radishes
8. Swiss Chard
9. Leafy Greens, such as collards, mustard greens, spinach, and kale
10. Beans

In some ways, growing in a site with part shade is easier than growing in full sun. You won't have to water as often, and crops that are quick to bolt in hot weather, such as lettuces and spinach, will grow quite a bit longer given some shade.

The best thing about knowing that these crops will successfully grow with some shade is that you'll be able to get more produce from your garden. Even if you're lucky enough to have an area with full sun that you can reserve for a vegetable garden, knowing which plants will take some shade will help you get the most out of your space. You can use that sunny space to grow the sun-lovers: peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, corn, and squashes. The other crops, those that do well in the shade, can be tucked in anywhere. Grow some beets or swiss chard in your part-sun perennial border. Grow some lettuce or radishes in a container or window box. Make use of the space you have, in both sun and shade, and you can easily double the amount of vegetables you would usually get.

Having a shady garden doesn't mean you're destined to live a life devoid of fresh garden vegetables. By making the most of what you have, you can harvest lettuces, peas, and other tasty veggies from spring through fall.

Tomato Problems - Tomato Diseases: Foliage

Growing fresh tomatoes is one of the true joys of the vegetable gardener. But tomatoes can suffer from all kinds of diseases and pests. Problems growing tomatoes are often the result of weather conditions. This is something that is out of the gardeners control. However if you know your area is prone to a certain disease, you should look for varieties that are listed as resistant. Your local Cooperative Extension Service should be able to help you there.


Tomato diseases are rarely fatal, if the proper management is employed. It is important to catch any tomato disease early, before it spreads to all of your tomato plants and possibly other plants in the same family, such as potatoes, eggplants and peppers. Here are some common tomato diseases, their symptoms and what to do if tomato diseases threaten your home vegetable garden.

Tomato Diseases - Foliage

• Early Blight Early Blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes. Symptoms: Dark spots with concentric rings develop on older leaves first. The surrounding leaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sun scald. 
• Management: Early Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne. It can also come in on transplants. Remove affected plants and thoroughly clean fall garden debris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase likelihood of attack. Copper and/or sulfur sprays can prevent further development of the fungus. The biofungicide Serenade® lessens problems. More info and photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
  
  
• Gray Leaf Spot Gray Leaf Spot affects only the leaves of tomatoes, starting with the oldest leaves. Symptoms: Small, dark spots that can be seen on both the top and bottom surfaces of the leaves. The spots enlarge and turn a grayish brown. Eventually the centers of the spots crack and fall out. Surrounding leaf areas will turn yellow and the leaves will dry and drop. Fruit production is inhibited. 
• Management: Warm, moist conditions worsen gray leaf spot problems. Remove all affected plants and fall garden debris. Select resistant varieties. More info and photo from Texas Cooperative Extension
  
  
• Late Blight Late blight affects both the leaves and fruit of tomatoes. Late Blight is the disease responsible for the Irish Potato Famine. Late Blight spreads rapidly. Cool, wet weather encourages the development of the fungus. If you suspect you have Late Blight, contact your Local Extension Service for definite ID. Symptoms: Greasy looking, irregularly shaped gray spots appear on leaves. A ring of white mold can develop around the spots, especially in wet weather. The spots eventually turn dry and papery. Blackened areas may appear on the stems. The fruit also develop large, irregularly shaped, greasy gray spots. Management: Copper sprays offer some control. Serenade® works best as a deterrent, rather than a cure.
  The Late Blight fungus can overwinter in frost free areas. Since it spreads to potatoes, it also overwinters in potato debris and seed, even in colder areas. Remove all debris and don't save seed potatoes. More info and photo from Texas Cooperative Extension
  
  
• Septoria Leaf Spot Septoria Leaf Spot is sometimes mistaken for Late Blight. With septoria leaf spot, the papery patches on the leaves develop tiny, dark specks inside them. Older leaves are affected first. Management: Copper sprays and Serenade® are somewhat affective at halting the spread of symptoms. More info and photo from Cornell University Cooperative Extension
  
  
• Southern Blight Southern Blight manifests as a white mold growing on the stem near the soil line. Dark, round spots will appear on the lower stem and both the outer and inner stem will become discolored. Southern Blight fungus girdles the tomato stem and prevents the plant from taking up water and nutrients. Young plants may collapse at the soil line. Management: Crop rotation seems to help. There has also been some evidence that extra calcium and the use of fertilizers containing ammonium offer some protection. More info and photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension
  
  
• Verticillium Wilt This name can be misleading, as sometimes the leaves will turn yellow, dry up and never appear to wilt. Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungus and it can affect many different vegetables. The fungus can persist in the soil for many years, so crop rotation and selection of resistant varieties is crucial. Symptoms include: wilting during the hottest part of the day and recovering at night, yellowing and eventually browning between the leaf veins starting with the older, lower leaves and discoloration inside the stems. Verticillium Wilt inhibits the plants ability to take in water and nutrients and will eventually kill the plant. Verticillium wilt is more pronounced in cool weather.
• Management: Remove affected plants and choose resistant varieties. More info and photo from University of Minnesota Extension Service
  
   
  

All About Tomatoes --- How to Buy, Store, & Use Tomatoes

Tomatoes are the poster vegetable - the cause célèbre, if you will - of seasonal and local eating. Finding tomatoes that taste like tomatoes may be the biggest single draw to farmers markets around the country. See here how to choose and use these summer gems.

The Best Tomatoes

Photo © Molly Watson

For all the hoopla around "heirloom" tomatoes, I fear people sometimes lose sight of the most important indicators of a tasty tomato. The best tomatoes tend to be:

1. Dry-farmed, which means the tomato plants aren't watered after their flowers set, forcing the plants to work a bit harder to make the tomatoes and leading to better, deeper flavor.
2. Vine-ripened, that is, the tomatoes were allowed to ripen on the vine before they were picked (not simply left on the vine when brought to the store).
3. Locally grown, because tomatoes grown as outlined above are delicate creatures not up for long voyages.

Tomato Varieties

Photo © Molly Watson

Gone are the days when tomatoes were necessarily red and beefsteak (although I'd never refuse a well-grown, perfectly ripe sliced beefsteak tomato sprinkled with salt!). Find your favorite variety of tomato with these guides.

• Tomato Varieties by Color
• Heirloom Tomatoes
• Hybrid Tomatoes

Tips for Buying Tomatoes

Photo © Molly Watson

How often have we all bought perfect looking tomatoes at the store only to bite into flavorless mush? Once is one time too often, quite frankly. While I can't guarantee these tips will forever save you from such a fate, they should keep such incidences to a bare minimum.

• Look Don't worry about tomatoes with weird shapes. Even cracked skin is okay, but leaking juice and soft spots are not.
• Feel Choose tomatoes that feel heavy for their size.
• Smell Tomatoes should smell earthy and tomato-y, never musty or flat.
• Taste This is where farmers market shopping really pays off – you can often taste the tomatoes before you buy them.

How to Store Tomatoes

Treat tomatoes gently. Heirloom tomato varieties, in particular, tend to be quite fragile. So don't pile the tomatoes in a bag where their weight will squash one another, and always pluck vine-ripening tomatoes off their vines (or the vine stem off them) to avoid having the sharp vines poke holes in your precious cargo. But above all never refrigerate tomatoes. Temperatures under 50° turn tomatoes mushy and mealy.

Herbs for Dying

The definition of an herb is a useful plant and for most of us these days, that means cooking. But for centuries, herbs have been even more popular as dye plants. The most fascinating thing to me about using plants to dye other materials is that the resulting color is often not what you’d expect. Pink heather results in a golden color, while yellow Gallium can create tones from brick red to coral.

Because herb plants are natural dyes, the colors will be more variable than dyes produced from a chemical formula. But the richness and depth of color is unmatched and the surprise results are often part of the pleasure of using natural dyes.

All plants will result in some coloring. You’ll find a wide range of plants that will produce colors in yellow, yellow-brown and gray-brown tones. Deeper golds, russets and reds are a bit harder to come by and blue and purple were down-right challenging. That’s why purple was considered a royal color for so long. Cloth dyed these colors was rare and expensive.

Many common dye herbs can be grown easily in the garden; plants like broom, dandelion, fennel, goldenrod,, hops and marigolds. Experiment and see what works for you.

How to Dye

In a nutshell, you create a dye by boiling or simmering the plant parts. The tougher and woodier the plant part, the longer it needs to boil. A great deal of plant material is necessary to achieve an intense color. A general rule of thumb is to start with equal weights of plants and material. You may need to increase the plant portion or even double it, to get the desired result.

1. Prepare the plants.
   • Chop and crush tougher plants. Extremely fibrous plants can be softened by soaking in water overnight, before chopping.
   • Flowers and tender leaves can be chopped slightly to expose more surface area. 
   
   
2. Scour the Fabric Creating the dye is the fun part of the process. The tedious part is preparing the material to be dyed. Cloth and yarn need to be scoured (cleaned) and treated with a mordant (fixative) before you even get around to dying, but doing so will result in better color that won’t wash out.
   Scouring cleans the material and leaves it free of any grease and dirt that might mare the dye job. Scouring is done in 2 steps:
   
   
   • First wash the cloth or yarn in the washing machine, in hot water with washing soda (soda ash - sodium carbonate). You can find washing soda at some grocery stones and at hardware stores and pool supply shops. Do not use fabric softener.
   • Second, fill a large stainless steel or enamel pot half full of water and an ounce of washing soda per pound of fabric. Add the fabric or yarn and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce slightly to a rolling boil and allow to process for another 2 hours, stirring every 15 minutes or so.
     Turn off the stove, allow the water to cool, remove the fabric and rinse in clean, cool water.
      
3. Create the Dye Fill a stainless steel or enamel pot with enough water to thoroughly submerge the cloth or yarn, with amble room to stir and swirl. Add the herbs and bring to a boil. Let the herbs boil for about 1-3 hours, until most of the color is drained from the plants. Strain the plant pieces out of the water and allow it to cool completely.
4. Finish Preparing the Cloth or Yarn So that the material being dyed can take in and retain as much color as possible, it is usually treated with a mordant or fixative, a substance that reacts as a bond with the dye. There are many different materials used as mordants and they will each effect the color of the dye in some way. Finding the right mordant for a particular dye is a matter of taste. You should be able to find mordants at craft stores and yarn supply shops. Follow the package directions, but in general, you will bring the mordant to a simmer and then add the thoroughly wet cloth or yarn. Allow the mixture to simmer for another hour before moving the cloth or yarn to the dye bath.
   
   
5. Dying Once the dye mixture has cooled and the cloth or yarn has simmered an hour with the mordant, transfer the still wet cloth or yarn into the pot of dyed water and slowly bring it back up to a simmer. Allow to continue simmering for another hour and begin checking to see if you’ve got the color your want. You’ll want the color a little darker than the finished product, since some will wash out in the rinse.
6. Final Rinse Once you have enough color, rinse first in a bucket of hot water. Then move to a bucket of warm water and rinse some more. Finally, rinse in a bucket of clear cold water. Now you can hang it out to dry and admire the results.

Dyeing Tips

• Pans - Stainless steel works best. Enamel or galvanized iron will work. (Iron, copper and aluminum can affect the color of the dye.) Use a wooden spoon or glass rod for stirring
• Water - Soft water or rain water has the least effect on color.

Vegetable Gardening in a Small Space

You don’t need a farm to grow fresh vegetables, herbs and fruits. You don’t really even need a garden. Plant breeders know that after taste, home gardeners want a high yield in a small space. So they’ve been developing more varieties that can grow in a small foot print or even live in containers all year long.

The Small Vegetable Plot

Vegetable gardening used to be the poor relation of home gardens. Perennial borders reigned, mixed borders were most gardeners reality and vegetable gardens were hidden in the back yard, usually the domain of the man of the house. Vegetable gardens were about producing and a man could still be a man and garden with vegetables. Now that vegetables have taken a more prominent place on the table, they are gaining more respect in the gardening world. And with the increased interest from home gardeners, there has been a surge in the development of new varieties: colorful novelty vegetables, heirlooms, ethnic varieties and compact growers.
You don’t need a large area to have a vegetable garden. You do need good soil, plenty of sunshine, a water source and probably a fence. If you think the deer love your Hostas, the entire woodland community is going to enjoy your vegetable garden. If you plant it, they will come.

Siting Considerations

Sun: Vegetables need a good 6 or more hours of sun each day. Without sun, the fruits will not ripen and the plants will be stressed. There are a few crops that can survive in light shade, lettuce and other greens, broccoli and cole crops, but if you can’t provide sun, you might want to reconsider having a vegetable garden.

Water: Vegetables also require regular watering. Without regular water, vegetables will not fill out and some, like tomatoes, will crack open if suddenly plumped up with water after struggling without for awhile.

You can’t always rely on rain. If you have the means, a drip irrigation system is a definite plus for a vegetable garden. The new component systems are really quite easy to install and cost a lot less than most people think. And you’ll save money on water, because it goes directly to the plant’s roots. Less is lost to evaporation.
If you don’t want to opt for drip irrigation, try and site your vegetable garden near a water spigot. You’ll be more likely to water if you don’t have to drag the hose out.

Soil: The final consideration is essential. Vegetables need a soil rich in organic matter. Soil is important to the growth of all plants, but more so with vegetables, because even taste is affected by the quality of the soil. That’s part of why wine from the same grape variety can vary from region to region and why some areas grow hotter peppers than others.

If you can provide these three basics: sun, water and great soil, you can vegetable garden.

What Do They Mean By Full Sun, Partial Shade, and so on?

Plants usually come labeled with their sun exposure requirements. Measuring sun exposure for plants is not an exact science. There will always be variables such as cloudy days and places where it gets to be 100 degrees in the shade. The definitions below are the generally accepted standards for determining sun exposure in the garden.

• Full Sun: At least 6 full hours of direct sunlight. Many sun lovers enjoy more than 6 hours per day, but need regular water to endure the heat.
• Partial Sun / Partial Shade: These 2 terms are often used interchangeably to mean 3 - 6 hours of sun each day, preferably in the morning and early afternoon. - However if a plant is listed as Partial Sun, greater emphasis is put on its receiving the minimal sun requirements.
  - If a plant is listed as Partial Shade, the plant will need some relief from the intense late afternoon sun, either from shade provided by a nearby tree or planting it on the east side of a building.
  
• Dappled Sun: Dappled sunlight is similar to partial shade. It is the sun that makes its way through the branches of a deciduous tree. Woodland plants and underplantings prefer this type of sunlight over even the limited direct exposure they would get from partial shade.
• Full Shade: Less than 3 hours of direct sunlight each day, with filtered sunlight during the rest of the day. Full shade does not mean no sun. There aren't many plants, except mushrooms, that can survive in the dark.

Growing Lavender

Lavender (Lavandula) is such a romantic flower that every gardener sooner or later succumbs to the urge to grow it. Undeterred by the fact that it is a native of the Mediterranean and a lover of dry, sunny, rocky habitats, we give it a try anyway, hoping it will adapt. After all, England can hardly be considered dry or particularly sunny, yet English gardeners are renowned for growing lavender plants. Think of ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’, two of the hardiest and best loved lavender varieties. This is a good place to start a discussion on growing lavender.

Growing Requirements
As with most plants, your success in growing this coveted plant will depend both on what kind of growing conditions you can provide and which varieties you select to grow. Lavender plants will tolerate many growing conditions, but it thrives in warm, well-drained soil and full sun. Like many plants grown for their essential oils, a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance lavenders fragrance. While you can grow lavender in USDA Zone 5, it is unlikely you will ever have a lavender hedge. More realistically you can expect to have plants that will do well when the weather cooperates and to experience the occasional loss of a plant or two after a severe winter or a wet, humid summer.
Lavender is a tough plant and is extremely drought resistant, once established. However, when first starting you lavender plants, don't be afraid to give them a handful of compost in the planting hole and to keep them regularly watered during their first growing season.

Special Considerations
It is dampness, more than cold, that is responsible for killing lavender plants. Dampness can come in the form of wet roots during the winter months or high humidity in the summer. If humidity is a problem, make sure you have plenty of space between your plants for air flow and always plant in a sunny location. Areas where the ground routinely freezes and thaws throughout the winter will benefit from a layer of mulch applied after the ground initially freezes. Also protect your lavender plants from harsh winter winds. Planting next to a stone or brick wall will provide additional heat and protection.

Pruning
Although lavender plants get regularly pruned simply by harvesting the flowers, to keep them well shaped and to encourage new growth, a bit of spring pruning is in order. The taller varieties can be cut back by approximately one-third their height. Lower growing varieties can either be pruned back by a couple of inches or cut down to new growth. If you live in an area where lavender suffers some winter die-back, don't even think about pruning your plants until you see some new green growth at the base of the plant. If you disturb the plants too soon in the season, they give up trying.

Containers
You can always grow your lavender in pots and move it to follow the sun or even bring it indoors for the winter. Keep in mind that although lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight space. A pot that can accommodate the root ball with a couple of inches to spare would be a good choice. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.

Insure that the pot has plenty of drainage. To prevent water pooling in the pot, place about an inch of loose gravel at the bottom. Rot root is one of the few problems experienced by lavender plants. Use a loose, soilless mix for planting and remember that container grown lavender will require more water than garden grown plants. How much more depends on the environment and the type of pot. Water when the soil, not the plant, appears dry and water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the foliage. Compact varieties make the best choices for containers. Some to try are L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata)

Freezing cilantro

A few weeks ago I froze cilantro and took pictures of what I did.

First I chopped the cilantro with my hand chopper, can be done with electric chopper also or chopped with a knife.

 After chopping I put it in ice cube trays filled them about 3/4 full. then filled to the top with water. After freezing all the way pop out of trays and place in a container or baggie for freezing.

 Cilantro is great for salsa! And many other dishes. To use just unthaw and add to the dish or recipe.

Growing Sage - A Wise Choice for the Herb or Flower Garden

Overview:

Culinary sage refers to a small group of the genus Salvia. These are evergreen perennial subshrubs with woolly grayish leaves that add an earthy freshness to foods. Spikes of purple/blue flowers appear in mid-summer.

Latin Name:

Salvia officinalis Common Name: Common Sage, Garden Sage

Zone:

5 - 9

Sun Exposure:

Generally Full Sun. Needs some shade in higher Zones.

Mature Size:

1 - 2' H, 2 -3' W

Bloom Period/Days to Harvest:

Blooms mid-summer. May bloom first year depending on size and site. Allow the plant to grow unharvested for the first year. Then leaves can be harvested at anytime, although they are consider at their best before or just after blooming.

Design Tips:

Sage quickly becomes a small woody shrub that can need replacing every 3-4 years. Frequent harvesting and pruning helps to reinvigorate sage plants. While a sage plant is in its prime, it makes an attractive addition to both herb gardens and ornamental borders. The purple, golden and tri-color varieties work especially well as edgers, as shown right.

Varieties:

Common Salvia officinalis is excellent for use as a seasoning and is undemanding in the garden. For variety and attractiveness, try one of the following. S.o. cv. Tricolor doesn't get as large as S. officinalis, but the variegation of its green, white and pink/purple leaves make it as much an ornamental as a culinary herb.
S.o. cv. Purpurescens has deep purple young leaves that mature to a burgundy
S.o. cv. Aurea is a compact grower with soft yellow leaves and purple flowers.

Uses:

Sage leaves are a popular poultry and meat seasoning. They can be used both fresh and dried. Sage also makes a nice tea. The leaves and branches are often featured in crafts, like wreaths.

Cultural Requirements & Maintenance:

Sage plants can be started from seed, root cuttings or transplants. Sage seed needs to be sown while fresh. It does not store well and even fresh, is not terribly reliable and is slow to establish. Root cuttings can propagated by layering (Laying the side branches down so that they are in contact with the soil.) Fortunately, reasonably priced, small sage plants can be found in most garden centers in the spring. Sage prefers a warm, sunny location, although it does not enjoy extreme heat. It is not particular about soil, except that it be well-drained.

Pruning after flowering will keep plants attractive and prevent them from getting too woody and leggy. Fertilize in early spring.

Sage is very happy growing in containers. If you want to try growing sage indoors, you will need to provide strong, direct light.

Few pests bother sage. It is done in more by excess water, not enough light and lack of pruning.

Harvesting: Harvest lightly the first year, as the plant becomes established.Harvest individual leaves as needed. Leaves can also be dried and stored for future use.

Container Gardening Mistakes to Avoid

1. Don't fill a large container in the wrong place: Ever tried to lift a large container garden filled with dirt and plants? I have, and it can be overwhelmingly heavy. When using a large or unwieldy container make sure to place your pot where it will live and then fill it – you’ll save your back!
Also, for large containers, fill the bottom third with empty plastic bottles or a product called "Better Than Rocks," to take up space. It will make your container lighter and less expensive because you won't need as much potting soil.

2. Don't Drown Your Plants: To avoid over-watering your container gardens, use containers that have drainage holes – lots of them. Also, make sure to read the moisture requirements for your plants and then follow them. Before you water, check if your soil is moist. To do this put your finger into the soil about an inch. Water if the soil feels dry to the touch.
If you do over-water, leaves may turn yellow and fall off, or your plants may get limp. If your soil is too wet, move the container to a dry, breezy spot until it dries out. If you have the room, you can also move your container garden into a garage or sheltered spot to dry it out, particularly if the weather is wet.
For more info on keeping plants from drowning.

3. Don't Under-water: Most container gardens need watering at least once a day in the heat of the summer. Many, especially hanging planters, or small containers need watering even more often because there is less soil to hold moisture. When you water, make sure to really soak your plants – if you just give them a sip, the water will only wet the top layer of soil. Water until you see it coming out of the bottom of your pot.
Lots of people use water crystals but they are expensive and some tests have shown that they aren't particularly effective.
If your plants do dry out, don’t despair; even the most pathetic, limp, plant might revive with a good drink. If the container is small enough, submerge the whole thing in a bucket of water until the air bubbles subside. For a large container take a skewer or stick and gently poke holes deep into the soil to allow water to reach the roots. Then water generously.
4. Awkward plant to pot ratio: Make sure to consider the proportion of plants to your container. A large container stuffed with short plants can look stunted. If you need a rule of thumb (and remember that rules are meant to be broken) try to have at least one plant that is as tall as the container. Also try plants that will spill over the sides.
For more info on choosing a container.
5.Don't buy weak or sickly plants: Buying your plants at a reputable local nursery is a good place to start in your quest for healthy plants. You have a greater chance of getting plants that are disease and pest free and well cared for than at a big box store. At a nursery, you can often get a wealth of information and advice from knowledgeable staff. Don't be afraid to ask someone to help you pick out a good plant.
If you can’t resist the prices of buying plants from a big box store (and occasionally, who can’t?), try to buy them on or close to the day they’re delivered. Don’t be shy to ask someone who works there which day new plant stock arrives. Delivery is usually the same day every week.
Here are some suggestions for how to save money on container gardening.

6. Fear of pruning: When your container gardens start looking leggy or ragged, don’t be afraid to cut them back. You may want to put them in an out-of-the-way spot until they re-bound, but chances are they’ll come back healthier and happier with a good haircut.

7. Beware of bad neighbors: Make sure that all the plants in your container garden share the same sun, soil and water requirements. You can find out this information from your seed packets or plant labels.


8. Starving your plants: Most potting mix has very few of the nutrients that plants require to grow and be healthy so you will need to add those nutrients to the soil. There are many fertilizers to choose from and flowering plants have different needs than vegetables and herbs.
In container gardening what nutrients there are in your potting soil are either quickly used by the plants or are washed out with repeated watering. Fertilizing container gardens regularly is a key to their success. You can start with a slow release fertilizer mixed in with your potting soil and then add a diluted, liquid fertilizer, such as fish emulsion, every couple of weeks. I use organic or all natural fertilizers.

9. Living with ick: After you’ve tried everything, short of mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and your plant still looks dreadful, cut your losses and toss it on the compost pile. If only one plant in your container garden is icky, just pull out that plant and replace it.
For more info on how to fix an ugly container garden. 
 
10. Don't have unrealistic expectations: Before you make your container gardens, evaluate how you live. Do you travel a lot during the summer? If so, either get self-watering containers, enlist some help to keep your plants healthy and alive while you’re gone or get plants that don't need a lot of water.
Garden how you live. Are you casual or formal? I take a loosey-goosey approach to gardening because it fits well with my personality. I like big overflowing containers with riotous colors and luxuriant blossoms. Some people like neat, well-planned, formal containers.
Remember, this isn’t brain surgery –- there’s lots of room for error. Have fun and experiment. Whatever your lifestyle or personality you can make container gardens that will give you joy and bring beauty to your surroundings.

Mint - Growing and Using the Fragrant Herb Mint

Overview:

Plants in the mint family are very hardy perennials with vigorous growth habits. Mint, left to its own devices, will spread quickly and become a nuisance. However, it is very popular as a flavorful herb and the plants can be grown easily. Just try to chose a spot where you won’t mind the rampant growth or grow it in a confined space.

Latin Name:

Peppermints (Mentha × piperita), Spearmints (Mentha spicata). 

Mature Size:

Height - 12 to 18 inches (30 - 45cm).
Width: 18 to 24 inches (45 - 60cm). However plants will spread much further.

Days to Harvest:

Seed germinates in 10 - 15 days. Full size plant depends upon variety and growing conditions. Usually within 2 months.

Exposure:

Sun / Partial Shade

USDA Hardiness Zones:

Depends on variety. Peppermint is very cold hardy, down to Zone 3. Spearmint handles the heat best, up to Zone 11.

Description:

Mint really wants to be a ground cover. The long branches grow upward and then flop over and root, spreading the plant wherever it can reach. The spikes of white or pinkish flowers are attractive, but brief. However, they do attract bees, butterflies and even birds. Most mint plants are hybrids and will not grow true from seed.

Design Suggestions:

Many mints work well in herbal lawns. They will need to be kept mowed, if you plan on walking on them. But this will help control their spread and the scent will make the work more pleasant. Otherwise I highly recommend planting mint in pots and keeping them on patios or paved areas. There will be more than enough to harvest and you won’t have the high maintenance of keeping the plants in check.

Suggested Varieties:

• Mentha piperita , Peppermint - The best for mint flavoring. (USDA Zones 5 - 11)
• M. piperita citrata cv., Orange Mint - One of the tangiest of the fruit flavored mints. (USDA Zones 4 - 11)
• Mentha suaveoloens , Apple Mint - Apple. Mint. What’s not to like? (USDA Zones 5 - 11)
• Mentha suaveolens variegata, Pineapple Mint - Variegated offshoot of apple mint. (USDA Zones 6 - 11)

Growing Tips:

Mint is one of the few culinary herbs that grows well in shady areas, although it can handle full sun if kept watered. 

Cuttings of mint will root easily in soil or water and mature plants can be divided and transplanted. However you can start new plants from seed. Sow outdoors in late spring or start seed indoors about 8-10 weeks before the last frost. Keep soil moist until seed germinates.
Mint prefers a rich, moist soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.5 and 7.0. If the soil is somewhat lean, top dress yearly with organic matter and apply an organic fertilizer mid-season, after shearing.
To contain the roots and limit spreading, you can grow mint in containers, above or sunk into the ground. Be careful to keep container mints from flopping over and touching the ground. Stems will root quickly, if given the chance.


Harvesting: Snip sprigs and leaves as needed.
If you don’t harvest your mint regularly, it will benefit greatly from a shearing mid-season. At some point, you will probably notice the stems getting longer and the leaves getting shorter. That’s the time to cut the plants back by 1/3 to ½ and get them sending out fresh new foliage again. You can do small patches at a time, if you have a lot of mint, and prolong the harvest season. All cuttings can be used, dried or frozen for later use. You can use, dry or freeze the cuttings.

Pests & Problems: Sometimes gets rust, which appears like small orange spots on the undersides of leaves. Use an organic fungicide and try to allow plants to dry between waterings. Stressed plants may also be bothered by whitefly, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs

Basil - How to Grow Great Basil in Your Garden

verview:

Basil is a an annual herb closely identified with Italian cooking, although it is originally from India. Today there are dozens of different basil varieties, some with the familiar lemony tang and others with spicy and exotic scents and flavors. They all grow easily in warm, sunny weather as tender annuals. The leaves are commonly used in cooking, but the flower buds are also edible.

Latin Name:

Ocimum basilicum Common: Basil

Zone:

Tender Annual

Size:

Varies with variety. ‘Sweet Basil’ can reach 6', but grows to about 3' for most gardeners. There are also short 6" dwarf varieties, which work especially well in pots.

Exposure:

Full Sun

Bloom Period/Days to Harvest:

You’ll want to prevent your basil from blooming for as long as possible, by harvesting or pinching off the top sets of leaves as soon as the plant reaches about 6" in height. If the plant sets flowers, it is on its way to going to seed and will not be bushing out with leaves. Once a basil plant goes to seed, the existing leaves lessen in flavor.

Description :

Basil is a member of the mint family. The extremely aromatic leaves also have a delightful variety of flavors from the slightly lemony mint of ‘Sweet Basil’ to cinnamon, and licorice. Leaf color spans from rich green to deep purple, with smooth or crinkled leaves. The flowers are insignificant, but very popular with bees.

Design Tips:

Basil is traditionally planted along side tomato plants. It’s said they help each other grow, but it may just be for convenience in harvesting. Basil does not need to remain in the vegetable or herb garden. Some of the shorter, purple varieties, like ‘Spicy Globe’, actually make nice edging plants in the ornamental garden, if you don’t have problems with animals.

Suggested Varieties:

Ocimum basilicum ‘Genovese’ - Larger leaves than ‘Sweet Basil’, with all the flavor.
O. b. ‘Cinnamon’ or ‘Mexican Spice’ - Green foliage, purple flowers, with a spicy, cinnamon scent.
O. b. ‘Finissimo Verde a Palla’ & ‘Spicy Clove’ - Quick growing compact plants that are great for containers and edges.
O. b. ‘Lemon’ - Gives a fresh lemony tang to pesto. Small leaves can be harder to harvest.
O. b. 'Red Rubin' - Keeps purple color throughout the season with great flavor. Wonderful in vinegars.

Cultural Notes:

Basil is a heat lover. Don’t bother planting it until the daytime temperatures remain in the 70s F. and night temperatures are above 50 degrees F. Seeds can be started indoors 3-4 weeks before last spring frost date. Unlike many Mediterranean herbs, basil likes a somewhat rich soil and doesn’t like to be kept dry. Space plants about 10" apart. They will bush out. Begin pinching the tops off once the plants reach about 6" in height. If you don’t pinch or harvest, the plants will grow tall and gangly, with few leaves and will bolt to seed. You can continue harvesting as long as there are leaves left on the plant to keep it going.
Basil is very sensitive to frost and will be one of the first plants to go in the fall. You can extend the season slightly by covering your plants with row covers when frost is threatened. However, if the leaves are touched by a frost covered row cover, that’s enough to likely turn them black.
If you live in a frost free area, you might want to allow some basil plants so set flowers and self-seed in your garden. Not all varieties will do this successfully.

Growing Indoors: You can grow basil indoor, from seed, seedling or cuttings from your vegetable garden plants. Provide direct sunlight and warmth and feed monthly. An underfed basil plant, indoors or out, will have pale green leaves.

Problems: Aphids are the biggest basil pest, especially if grown indoors. Beetles and slugs can be a nuisance outdoors, tearing holes in the leaves.

Harvesting: As noted, frequent harvesting or pinching of the leaves will keep your basil plants producing longer. You can pinch off individual leaves or take the tops off of large plants, if you need a large amount.

Uses: Basil can be used in cooking, generally added at the end to keep its fresh taste and color. Basil can also be used fresh in salads, on sandwiches or even as a wrap, for instance around cheese cubes.

Preserving: Basil can be dried or frozen, for use after harvest.

Pictures of flowers

gDo you have pictures of flowers you'd like to share? Here is some of mine from last year. Feel free to email them at learnwaystosave@gmail.com

Growing Garlic in the Home Garden

Click HERE to learn how to Grow Garlic

How to grow a pineapple in your home

Click HERE to learn how to grow a pineapple in your home!